With a few days off, Renee and I decided to take a couple of days and head up to Lost Lake in the Mummy Range in Rocky Mountain National Park. Our plan was to start in Pingree Park, dropping into Rocky Mountain National Park from the Northern Boundary via Stormy Peaks Pass. We would spend the second day climbing Icefield Pass and Rowe Peak (13,404’) and come out on the third day at the Dunraven trail head near Glenn Haven. A twenty plus mile trip plus climbing, worked into three days.
Sunday morning our friend Ryan dropped us off at the Stormy Peaks trailhead. As we started out late in the morning, the skies weren’t looking to favorable for our ten mile jaunt up and over the mountain. As we neared timberline, the wind was blowing hard and the clouds were closing in with thunder and lightning. As we came through the trees onto the open tundra, we were greeted with two or three hundred Elk bugling and rutting. It was quite a site to see. As we got closer to the herd, they started to move up and over Stormy Peaks in what seemed to be a never ending stream of elk.
As we reached the top of the pass, the storms had moved around us, staying mostly to the north, so we could slow our pace a bit. We worked our way up to Lost Lake arriving around 5:00 PM. We got camp setup just in time for a few small rain showers to come through. Not long after setting up the tent, I just happened to look up to see a moose staring at me about forty feet away. I calmly told Renee there was a moose, but she didn’t believe me (not that I would ever make something like that up). Then she came over to look and was in shock. The moose hereafter referred to as Martha just stood there and looked at us for a while and went about her business eating and doing whatever moose do. She didn’t have any little ones with her, so we weren’t too worried about her.
We poured a drink of mountain kool-aid (Crown Royal) and went down to the lake to sit and watch “Martha”, our new moose friend and relax after a long day on the trail. As evening turned to darkness, we made our way back to camp for some dinner. As we retired to the tent for the night, we made the bold move of deciding not to hang our food and just take our chances that a critter wouldn’t make a meal of it.
I drifted off to sleep about nine o’clock that evening, although the wind was still blowing hard and a few small rain showers, so I was in and out of sleep most of the night. About 3:00AM Renee woke me up having to make a pit stop and wanted me to go out with her. She was a bit nervous, knowing that Martha was still out the somewhere.
As we were out relieving ourselves, I had that feeling like I was being watched. I looked around with my headlamp on, but didn’t see anything, so I let it go. As we lay in the tent trying to fall back to sleep, at the same time we both heard something very strange. It was coming from quite a distance away and moving closer and closer. Whatever it was, it was not very happy!! At this point we finally realized that it was a bear. It was snorting and growling and stomping the ground and coming closer and closer. As the bear made its way to just outside our tent, it was very loud at this point and you could hear and feel him pounding his front legs on the ground letting us know what we first suspected – HE REALLY WASN’T HAPPY!!
We sat in the tent wondering, okay this is a predicament, what now? Our food was outside, which was good, but he seemed to have no interest in that. All I could think of to do was to turn on the light in the tent hoping that this would somehow detour him, why I don’t know, but at this point that’s all we got. So I turn on the light, and it seemed to work. We sat there still and listened as he finally starting working his way down towards the lake, grunting and snorting the whole way. As the sounds faded away into the night, we both breathed a huge sigh of relief, but still being cautiously optimistic. After about 30 minutes, I was convinced that he wasn’t coming back and was actually able to fall asleep again.
I woke up about 6:30AM that morning as it started to get light. I then realized that he must not have returned. Not five minutes later I heard hooves stomping around the tent, thinking that Martha had come for a visit. I emerged from the tent 15 minutes later with no signs of Martha and luckily no signs of our earlier visitor that night. We were quite happy just to make it through the night. I fired up the JetBoil and made us some apple cider. We made our way down to the lake to drink our cider and ponder if we were going to try to climb Rowe Peak, given the fact neither one of us got much sleep the night before. As we sit there, I looked across the lake and Martha emerged from the trees to say good morning. We watched her for a while and pondered the situation. We came to the conclusion that it was a late start to climb, and with neither of us getting much sleep that night, that it wouldn’t be a good idea. Then to expand on that thought, I decided that if we stay another night, it’s most likely that the bear would be showing up again and we had already pushed our luck for one trip, or so we thought. So we decided to pack up and head on down to Dunraven. As we packed up camp, we knew we made the right decision when even the squirrel in the tree above us thought we should leave and made it known by bombarding us with pine cones. Just salt on the wound!!
We made our way down the mountain, we ran into a couple from Illinois that were working up to Lost Lake via the North Boundary Trail Head for the night. We mentioned to them that they would probably run into Martha our moose friend and not to worry about her to much and without trying to alarm them to much, told them about our encounter with the bear. Their eyes widened a bit, but at least they knew ahead of time what to expect.
As we wondered our way down the trail, we were both feeling pretty beat, turning our twenty plus mile trip in three days into two. As we get closer and closer to the car, I’m thinking beer and burgers and wanting to get that heavy pack off my back. From what I could make of what Renee was saying under her breath, I’m sure that’s what she was thinking as well!!
Not to worry though, our adventure wasn’t over just yet. About a mile and a half from The Dunraven trail head as we were coming up on the Cheley Ranch, I heard a rustling in the brush from across the river. I just happened to catch a glimpse of something out of the corner of my eye. I wasn’t exactly sure what I saw, but I had a good idea what it was. I didn’t think too much of it and we just pushed on.
A few hundred yards down the trail I heard a rustling in the brush again and caught a better glimpse of something out of the corner of my eye. It was a long blonde tail whisking off into the brush. At about the same time, I just happed to look down to see the fresh tracks of a mountain lion. It was at this point I realized what I had just seen. I didn’t want to say anything to Renee and alarm her, but she saw the fresh cat tracks at the same time. So I informed her that I saw the cat on the other side of the river following us for a while. How long I don’t know, but at least a quarter of a mile or so. Without panic we kept a brisk pace to the trail head, keeping our eyes open for anything that moved. Fortunately, that was the last that we saw of him (that we know of), but I’m sure that he had his eye on us whether we knew it or not.
Back at the car, we were both relieved to just be done with it. All in all, a fun and exciting trip, but happy to be back. After years of backcountry travel both by ourselves and with the dogs, both summer and mostly winter, we have never encountered what we did on this trip. In hind sight, we were glad we didn’t have the dogs with us on this trip. They are no strangers to moose, but I would imagine they could piss off a bear pretty good. Not that he needed much more of a reason to be pissed off!! Looking back on it, the only thing I could think of that we didn’t run into on this trip was a deer, go figure.
Lessoned learned – the next day I was sporting a brand new XL sized canister of bear spray for our trip up into Wild Basin to scout out a new ice climbing area.
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